In November of 2011, I traveled to South America to photograph Agustina and Johann’s wedding. Before and after the wedding, I spent a few weeks traveling through parts of Argentina and Bolivia.
In La Paz, Bolivia, Agustina and I started each morning with coco mate, an herbal tea to help with altitude sickness. Then, we strapped our cameras to our shoulders and hit the streets. We scaled the winding roads, (slowly!! The altitude was pretty rough.) heading first to the black markets where indigenous women in black boiler top hats and long velvet skirts, sold dried baby llama carcasses, plants, and herbs for good fortunes.
Though the gutters were grimy, the vendor stalls were filled with vivid colors. Past the black markets, we reached shops filled with woven Alpaca fabric and handmade crafts. With a light tone, Agust called to the shopkeeper, “Case,” using the native local word for a title of respect.
Slowly each woman went back and forth, offering one price and shaking their heads at the other. Often, after 20 minutes of negotiating, we’d leave without making a purchase. ‘What happened?’ I’d ask.
“I told them to remember my face for when I return after the wedding because I’ll back and want them to make me a good price”
I was surprised by this,”Will they really remember you?”
“Oh yes, and they’ll give me the Bilivian price.”
We spent hours absorbed in this simple routine. We took our time. What habits of America I still held on to slipped away she as each afternoon we walked without glancing at a clock and each night we ate dinner later and later.
By the time I arrived in Argentina, I knew if there was a schedule, it would be up for interpretation. Of all people, Agustina’s Grandma maintained these culture traditions with fervid dedication. She invited us to dinner and we spent an hour chatting in the living room-she speaking loud, enthusiastic bits of English, while I racked my mind for to remember phrases from my high school Spamish lessons.
More images to come… Check back for Part 2
